More Wall … Bethesda … Gethsemani

On Monday, we continued to stroll along the Jerusalem wall to the South up to what is called the Dung Gate, which eventually leads to the Western Wall. This time we did not go on top of the wall but walked beneath the wall from the outside so that Fr. Eugenio Alliata OFM could explain to us better the different strata of the wall, according to the date of its building, as well as other features, like the canals used to bring water into the city.

One particular aspect which he showed us is found a little bit further to the South than the Jaffa Gate. This is a tomb hewn in the rock which is coming from the time of Jesus, He said that such tombs are characteristic of the second century before Christ till the destruction of Jerusalem in the year 70 after Christ. Although this particular tomb is inexplicably just under the wall, normally these should be at least some 25 meters away from the wall of the city.

Tomb hewn in Stone, characteristic of the time of Jesus

Then we moved towards the next gate, which is Sion Gate, or according to the Muslims, David’s Gate. This was the sight of very fierce fighting during the 1948 war. The stalemate continued until 1964. During this period the Jews took up their positions in the Convent of the Saviour (Armenian), the Church of the Dormition and the Convent of St Francis which are all found on Mt Sion. On the inside of the city the Arabs (Jordan) held tight to their positions. In 1964 then the Jews left their positions (probably a strategic move while they prepared themselves for the 6-day war of 1967). We did see the wall with the effects of shrapnel and rifle bullets! Another example of a war which did not solve anything!

Inside Sion Gate there is the Armenian and the Jewish Quarters of the Old City of Jerusalem. Moving further to the South we did see the water canals of the Hasmonean Rule (Jewish priestly family in Judea during the 1st and 2nd centuries), as well as from the time of the Romans built by Pontius Pilate. This water used to be brought via an aqueduct from the area of Bethlehem, which is more or less as high as Jerusalem. Towards this side of the Wall we could see the remains of a very large Church built by the Emperor Justinian, the Ennea Church or Santa Maria Nuova. It was 100 meters long by 50 meters wide. Fr Alliata told us that, for example, Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica in Rome is some 70 meters long! This was built in 546 but destroyed by the Persians in 614 after Christ, only 70 years of existence! Some remains of this basilica have recently been found.

Again moving further south, Fr Alliata indicated to us a gate which was recently discovered called Skin Merchants’ Gate. It is very close to Dung Gate which takes its name from the fact that it led to a refuse area.

On Tuesday morning I visited Bethesda which is found within the Old City close to St Stephen’s Gate. This is a valley akin to the Temple Mount. From early on of the city of Jerusalem it seems that here there were two cisterns for water linked to the Temple by an open canal. Some biblical passages may well refer to this: Isa 7,3 and 2 Kings 18,17. Eventually, part of the canal was closed making it a tunnel. From 150 B.C. the Eastern side of the cistern became popular with sick people. It was thus here that Jesus met with the sick man who was waiting for his healing for 38 years (John 5,1-9). Jesus asked the man: “Do you want to be healed?” (v. 6) It is a question that Jesus is making also to me in this Year of the Faith. Yes, Lord, I want to be made whole. I want to believe.

Basilica of St Anne -- Bethesda

After the destruction of the Jerusalem, the Romans built here a Temple dedicated to Esculapius. In the 5^th Century Patriarch Giovenale built a Basilica (45x18m). This was destroyed by the Persians in 614. It was reconstructed by a monk called Modest for it to be destroyed again by Kalif Hakim towards 1010 A.D. The Crusaders built a Church in 1130. This Church is dedicated to St Anne, because tradition has it that this was the house of St Joachim and St Anne, and thus where Our Lady was born (it is very close to the place the Orthodox have as a commemoration of this). Today, it is run by the Missionaries of Africa (White Fathers).

Afterwards I visited the Monastery of St Stephen (just outside the Gate which carries his name, at least for Christians), where tradition says that Stephen was stoned to death after his trial (Acts 7,54–8,1). It is run by the Russian Orthodox.

Dome of the Monastery of St Stephen

Just across the road we find the Church with Mary’s Tomb, run by the Greek Orthodox Church. If you recall there is another Church dedicated to Mary’s death and eventually her Assumption body and soul into heaven on the third day: the Dormition on Mount Sion (this apart from the Church in Ephesus, Turkey). Typically, it is full of ancient brass lamps. It is quite dim.

Tomb of the Blessed Virgin Mary

I then went to visit the Grotto of Gethsemane: it is a stone’s throw from the actual Garden of Gethsemane across the road. This Grotto, run by the Franciscans, is a place where you can pray. A Friar is continually there asking people to be keep silence. Over here I passed some good time in prayer and reflection, asking the Lord to grant me always the grace to do his will, whatever the cost!

Grotto at Gethsemane

Remember, Lord, of your priests!
A plaque found at the Grotto at Gethsemane.