In the Land of St John

Let me first correct something I said yesterday. The big altar in Pergamum was not dedicated to Apollo but to Zeus, the God of gods, the head of the Greek Pantheon. I apologize for this mistake. Today we had the occasion to visit the great Acropolis on the hill overlooking Pergamum, which today is known as Bergama.

The most prominent building in the Acropolis the Traianeum, or Temple of Trajan, a huge marble temple that has been partially reconstructed from ruins found on the site. Beside it is the Temple of Athena, also partially reconstructed. Between the Traianeum and Athena temple was Pergamum's famous library of 200,000 volumes. Carved into the steep hillside, is the dramatic Hellenistic theater. Like most Hellenic and Hellenistic theaters, it offered a scenic panorama just in case the play was boring. Just down the hill from the summit on its own terrace is the site of the Altar of Zeus (the Altar is now in Berlin). At the foot of the theater was the Temple of Dionysus.

Then we moved to visit the Asklepion, which the Temple of the Healing Arts. This temple was among the world’s earliest and greatest medical centers. Here the great physician named Galen, the influential physician and philosopher who was born in Pergamum in 129 AD, laid down the basic rules for all the doctors who would come after him for centuries. Patients here were treated in a facility of surpassing architectural beauty known also for the greatness of its library. In addition, a huge theater with a dramatic view over the valley below entertained those well enough to attend.

The Asklepion is a famed ancient medical center built in honor of Asklepios, the god of healing (he is mentioned in the oath by the name of Aesculapius). The Asklepion gained in prominence under the Romans in the 2nd century AD, but a sacred site existed here as early as the 4th century BC. Some treatments employed at Pergamum, in complement with a sacred source of water that was later discovered as having radioactive properties, have been used for centuries. These included massage, herbal remedies, mud and bathing treatments, the interpretation of dreams, and the drinking of water.

In the centre of the first courtyard, an altar inscribed with the emblem of modern medicine, the serpent. Here I thought particularly of all those who are in the medical profession as doctors and nurses. I prayed that they may always treat their patient with great respect and love and that they may always serve life from the moment of its conception to its natural death.

Yesterday, we did pass in the vicinity of the city of Philadelphia. Today, I was told that we did read the letter to this city found in the Book of Revelation (3,7-13) but perhaps I was sleeping at the time! I just do not remember! Continuing on the lines of the other letters, Christians in this city are commended for their faithfulness: “you have kept my word and have not denied my name” and were encouraged to remain faithful through “the hour of trial”.

Then, today we have passed through the city of Smyrna (today Izmir) and as we went through we read the sixth letter: to the Christian community of the city (Rev 2,8-11). Again, Christians here are called to hold tight to their faith as tribulation and persecution approach. It would be great to contemplate and reflect on these letters and apply to our lives in the present circumstances.

Now we are in Menderes, in a huge hotel very close to the Aegean Sea. I enjoyed already the beautiful feel of this sea! Here we are close to the last of the seven cities: Ephesus. This city brings us close both to St John, the beloved disciple, and to Mary, the Mother of Jesus and our Mother.

A Map of the Seven Churches mentioned in the Book of Revelation

The big Synagogue at Sardis (from yesterday)

A detail of an amazing freeze of the Gymnasium in Sardis (from yesterday)

The Temple of Artemis in Sardis (from yesterday)

The Acropolis of Pergamum: a shot taken from the Asklepion

 

A Column in the Asklepion with the serpent, the emblem of modern medicine.