Galilee (2) and Golan Heights

Today’s visits were around the North-Eastern part of Galilee and the Golan Heights. We visited Tel Hazor, Tel Dan and Banias, in the region of Caesarea Philippi.

Tel Hazor

Tel Hazor is located in the Hula Valley, at the foot of the Galilee mountains. It is situated in a strategic position, controlling all the traffic leading to Damascus. Hazor’s location, its fertile land and the springs in the nearby Hazor Stream, gave it the natural conditions to develop into the greatest city in the land of Israel (archaeologists speak of 15,000 inhabitants, while Jerusalem had some 1000-2000 inhabitants at its peak) and one of the most important cities of the Canaanite period.

The Galilean Hills from Tell Hazor

It is one of the few cities of the Egyptian period which had walls and five gates. Because of the extent of the city, here we have the upper city (Acropolis) and the lower city, where people lived. The connection between the two parts of the city is marked by a podium with four holes, which apparently supported the legs of a throne, which the Pharaoh donated to the governor of the city. Thus, it seems that it has a political significance.

From the several findings made here it becomes apparent that Hazor had extensive links with Syria, Egypt, the Hittite Kingdom, Babylon and the lands of the Mediterranean, like Crete, Greece and Cyprus. These connections may have been the reason why Hazor became known as “the head of all those kingdoms” (Joshua 11,10), and the King of Hazor as “the king of Canaan” (Judges 4,2).

An Altar in the Temple Area at Tell Hazor

According to archaeological findings, the destruction of Hazol happened in the 13^th Century BC, possibly at the hands of the Egyptians. The Bible says it was Joshua who did this (Joshua 11,1-12). Let’s not forget that the Bible is not a history book and sometimes the redactors, writing centuries after the happenings, have more an ideal they want to present the people with. And the ideal here is that God has given this land to his people and they need to receive this gift from him with humility and gratitude.

Tel Dan

We then moved to Tel Dan. This is the place which gives rise to the River Jordan: there are three springs which then join with each other to form this important river in Israel and for the Bible. This national park is truly beautiful and refreshing. Water is everywhere and, at least, at a given moment of the trail, you hear the gushing forth of waters, or as an Italian student put it poetically: the singing of the water.

The rise of the River Jordan at Tell Dan

The tell is identified with the city of Laish, captured by the tribe of Dan, as we read in Judges 18,27-29. One of the most fascinating finds from Tel Dan is a piece of a fossilized tablet from the second half of the ninth century BC. Carved onto it is an inscription of Hazael, King of Damascus, boasting of his victory over the king of Israel and the king of the house of David. This is the first time that the words “house of David” were discovered outside of the Bible.

The Gate coming from the Israelite Period at Tell Dan.
Close to here that the extra-biblical reference to the "House of David" was found.

Here in Dan, King Jeroboam erected one of two temples outside of Jerusalem (the other being at Bethel), thus creating a schism from Jerusalem. See 1 Kings 12,28-33. There is also an elaborate entry to the city coming from the Israelite period. It is possible also to see the place where decisions were taken at the door of the gate, as we read several times in Sacred Scripture (read, for example, 2 Sam 19,8 and Ruth 4,1-2). 

The Temple dedicated to Ba'al by Jeroboam at Dan

Another very important find is the Canaanite Gate, coming down to us from the 18^th Century BC completely intact, with an arched entry, one of the oldest complete arches in the world.

The Canaanite Gate with a complete arch

Banias

Finally, we visited the Nature Reserve of Banias (in the region of Caesarea Philippi), which is linked to Peter’s Confession of faith in Jesus (Mark 8,29; Luke 9,30; Matt 16,16) and Jesus’ appointment of Peter as head of the apostles (Matt 16,18). John places this along the Sea of Tiberias (John 21,15-17). At Banias there is no memorial remembering this. The Franciscans have this memorial at Tabgha on the Sea of Tiberias, which we will visit tomorrow.

This place is also identified with where Jesus healed the “woman who had been subject to bleeding” (Mark 5,25; Luke 8,43). Some identify this woman with the Veronica (a corrupt version of the name Berenice). They claim that this woman had two houses: one at Banias and another in Jerusalem. According to Eusebius of Caesarea this woman, in gratitude for what Jesus did to her, made a statue of him at the entrance of her door at Banias. This is the first tradition that then developed into the imprint of the face of Jesus on a veil (a moment which became immortalized in the Via Crucis).

One particular thing which comes out clear of this place is the fact that there are several temples connected to it: a temple dedicated to the god Pan. The name in fact was taken from the name of this deity: Paneas (Banias, according to Arabic pronunciation). Herod the Great built also a temple here dedicated to Augustus, the Roman Emperor. There is also another temple dedicated to Zeus. Something very particular found here is the cemetery of the sacred goats, which were made to dance in the Temple dedicated to Pan.

The Sanctuary dedicated to Pan at Banias

The cemetery of sacred goats at Banias

Golan Heights

At the end of the day we drove to the North East of Israel very close to the border with Syria. We could, as a matter of fact, look into the Syrian territory … no worries it looked quite calm, at least from this side of the mountain range. From the news I read later it was not quite at all on the other side, Damascus! Let’s pray for a quick solution to this cruel civil war. 

A view of Syria from on top of the Golan Heights

To go there we had to pass through a region where the Druzes live. The Druzes are followers of a religion which comes from Islam, but has elements in it of Judaism, Christianity, and Hinduism. Among other things they believe in the transmigration of the soul. They have recognized Israel’s independence and, thus, Israel has recognized their existence. They are warriors. It is quite easy to find a Druze in an Israeli check-point and within the Israeli military.

A Druze village divided into three: part of it is in Israeli territory;
a second part in Lebanese territory; a third part in Syrian territory.

Mount Hermon from the Golan Heights