Nothing major … but interesting!

These past days did not present any particular thrills but were nonetheless interesting because, among others, two of the excursions took me beyond the Wall of Separation into the Palestinian Territories. And for me that is in itself an experience into the life a people!

Jerusalem Archaeological Park

On Monday, together with Prof. Eugenio Alliatta OFM, as part of his course, we visited the Jerusalem Archaeological Park and Davidson Centre. This is to be found on the southern side of the Western Wall. It offers a peek into the history of the Temple Mount and its surrounding areas. One could see there the remains of streets, columns, walls and plazas exposed by archaeologists during the last two centuries, but especially after Israel took control of the area. 

An arch protruding from Herod's Wall.
This is Robinson's Arch , once part of a bridge which connected
the Temple Mount to the main commercial area beneath.

From what Prof. Alliatta told us, a lot of renovation was being done to this space only some few years before the Great Revolt of 67-70 AD. This includes also the great stairs to the Temple Mount: there are clear indications that the stairs found by archaeologists date after the death and resurrection of Jesus. The stairs lead to the Huldah Gate, which was a double gate. 

The stairs leading to the Huldah Gate of the Temple:
the main entry for Jewish pilgrims.

Further to the right there was another entry to the Temple Mount: the triple-arched gate. Close by one could see a number of ancient ritual baths used by Jewish pilgrims to purify themselves before they could enter into the temple complex. One impressive thing is the immensity of the blocks used for the building of the temple. Some of these stones could weigh some 200 tonnes!

The huge stones with which the Second Temple was built!

The Temple Mount as the moon rises.

Bethany (Al-Azariah)

On Wednesday, together with an Italian friend, I went to visit Bethany, or as it called today Al-Azariah (from the name Lazarus). This is only a few steps away from Bethfage on the top of the Mt of Olives. However, since the building of the wall cut right through these two places (and sometimes right through complexes, for example between a convent and a school!), one needs to take a ride of some 18 km to reach this place!

This is village where Jesus spent time at the house of his friends Lazarus, Martha and Mary. It is in their house that Jesus was teaching and Mary was listening attentively to him “at his feet” while Martha was taken up by the work of the house (Luke 10,38-42). It was here, again that Jesus brought back to life Lazarus who had been dead four days (John 11,1-44). Finally, it was here that Mary anointed with precious ointment the feet of Jesus (John 12,1-8).

The Church at Bethany from the outside,
with mosaics dedicated to St Lazarus, St Martha and St Mary.

There is a Franciscan Church, built on the remains of other Byzantine Churches, which indicate the house of the Lazarus family. This Church is built in the form of a funerary temple of ancient Rome because it wants to recall the coldness of death which was defeated by Him who right in this place declares to be “the Resurrection and the Life”. It wants also to recall the warm intimacy of a family which was both dear and faithful to our Lord. There are a number of mosaics in the Church which recall the different moments of the Gospels which occurred here.

Inside of the Church at Bethany,
built on the house of Lazarus, Martha and Mary.

A little further up from the Church we find Lazarus’ Tomb. One needs to go down several steps into the ground to reach this tomb. It was certainly not very easy for Lazarus to come out straight of this tomb! At this tomb, both the humanity of Jesus (“Jesus wept” 11,35) and his divine power of death became manifest to those present and to us, through the Gospel account.

The Tomb of Lazarus

One verse in the Gospel which always strikes a chord in my heart is Martha’s confession of faith in Jesus, which here I wanted to make mine: “Yes, Lord; I believe that you are the Christ, the Son of God, he who is coming into the world” (John 11,27).

In the evening I attended a lecture given by Rabbi Richard Reinhardt on "The Family: Marriage, children and home on Friday night" at the Salesian Monastery Ratisbonne. It was an lecture which helped us understand a little bit better Jewish customs as well as the great importance given to the family by the Jewish religion. At one given moment Rabbi Reinhardt said: "The home is the centre of Jewish life and not the synagogue. Every Jewish home is God’s home."

Hebron

On Thursday, I went to visit Hebron in the mountains of Judah, together with an international group, made up of a priest from Japan, a priest from Hong Kong, a priest from the United States and a priest from Spain working in South Korea, and myself, from Malta! Again, Hebron is in the Palestinian Territories. It is some kilometers after Bethlehem, departing from Jerusalem. We took an Arab bus from Damascus Gate and then changed to a Sherut at the Husan interchange.

Hebron is considered to be the cradle for organized religion since Jews, Christians and Muslims venerate here the Tomb of the Patriarchs and their wives. Here we find the tombs of Abraham, Isaac and Jacob as well as the tombs of Sarah, Rebekah and Leah. Although the Muslims venerate here also the Tomb of Joseph, according to the Bible (Josh 24,32) this tomb is found rather in Shechem (and it is here that Jews venerate it). The tomb of Rachel is found midway between Bethlehem and Hebron, again according to the account of the Bible (Gen 35,16-20).

Ibrahimi Mosque with two of the cenotaphs.

Hebron was named Kiriath-arba (Gen 23,2; Josh 14,15; 15,13). About 2 miles to the North was Mamre, named after Mamre the Amorite (Gen 13,18; 35,27), which is now called El-Khalil ("the friend"). Among those who lived at Hebron were the Canaanites and the Anakim (23,2; 14,15; 15,13), Abraham (Gen 13,18), Isaac and Jacob (35,27). David made it his royal residence (2 Sam 2,1-4; 5,5; 1 Kings 2,11); as did Absalom (2 Sam 15,10). Sarah was buried here (Gen 23,17-20); Joshua took Hebron (Josh 10,36-37; 12,10), and Caleb retook it (14,14). The Romans also captured and destroyed it.

The burial place of the patriarchs is known as the cave of Machpelah. Currently there is the Ibrahimi (Abraham) Mosque. 

Ibrahimi Mosque. On the side there is
the entrance to the Jewish  place of prayer.

The Jews have access to the site through a different stairway on the side. Formerly there was a Crusader church which was in turn built on the site of a church erected by the emperor Justinian in the sixth century.

A Jewish girl praying (holding the book of prayer close to her face)
at one of the tombs.

The city is referred to as “the puzzled city” since there are a number of Jewish settlements both within the city and on its outskirts. That is the reason for a great number of Israeli soldiers in the area. The security situation in Hebron has created palpable tension.

Map of present day Hebron -- a puzzled city!

There is one particular road, Shuhada Street is out of bounds, with shops closed and hardly anyone on the road. 

Shuhada Street in Hebron -- completely deserted, apart from this soldier.

If you would like to read more about this situation particularly in Hebron, I found this article to be very instructive and informed: http://www.economist.com/node/21559663.